Light Meter Tutorial – Photography/Videography 101 with Steve DiCasa

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what’s up everybody Steve de casas here

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with another de casa film tutorial and

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this time I’m at the YouTube space this

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is awesome I got a chance to unlock the

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space and use it and if you want to do

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that too for your YouTube channel go

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check it out

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I’m in New York City there’s one in Los

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Angeles there’s one in like Tokyo London

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something like that go check it out it’s

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awesome so anyway this is going to be

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part two of my filmmaking 101 series the

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light meter and it’s the one thing I

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didn’t talk about in my big tutorial my

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50 minute long tutorial that I put up

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about a year and a half ago DSLR basic

00:34

settings if you have never touched a

00:36

camera before and you’re looking to

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learn photography or videography go

00:39

check that out I’ll annotate to it right

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here in this little corner so check it

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out I’m going to be using terminology

00:45

from that video in this video so if you

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haven’t seen it and if you’re looking to

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start fresh and for some reason you’ve

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found this video first go to that one

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learn about photography and videography

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learn about shutter speed f-stop ISO

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depth of field and then come right back

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here I’ll wait for you and then we’ll

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talk about the light meter so welcome

01:06

back so this is part 2 of my filmmaking

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101 series the light meter so because

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I’m in the YouTube space I have access

01:13

to different types of equipment so I

01:16

guess I’ll just tell you what I’m

01:17

shooting on so right here that camera

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right there if you want to look from

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this angle

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that’s a C 100 with a 24 72 the second

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one I’m shooting this camera right here

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it’s the only one you can’t see on the

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5d mark ii with a 1635 2 8 and then

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right here the demonstration camera is

01:35

going to be the 7d d now I never use

01:38

this comment before but the YouTube

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space had it and I plugged it in and

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looked it up and I really liked the

01:45

display that it has now I’ve lost

01:47

control on the back of the monitor here

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when you plug into an HDMI and you go

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out to a monitor you lose the control on

01:54

the back so that kind of sucks but it’s

01:57

great for what I’m trying to talk about

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here so basically what you’re seeing

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here is what would be on the back of the

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LCD screen right here on the back of the

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camera so since you should know from

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watching the DSLR basic settings

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tutorial here are some settings right

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here it’s a little bit different from

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the 5d

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mark – from that video right here is the

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shutter speed which is at 180 degrees

02:18

right now because I’m shooting at 24

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frames per second you should know what

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that means

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here’s the f-stop we’re at f/8 and

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here’s the ISO we’re at ISO 320 for the

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demonstration purposes right now

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now I didn’t mention in that video what

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the light meter is and where the light

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meter is this big thing right here on

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the mark – it’s in a different spot but

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that’s the light meter so these weird

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dots and weird numbers and things so I’m

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going to talk about it a lot of people

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watch my DSLR basic settings tutorial

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and they commented on it and said it was

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the best tutorial that they ever saw

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that it was well explained and all that

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stuff and I have to say thank you so

02:58

much for that I’m so happy that it’s

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getting through the people and that it’s

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clear and that people are understanding

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it and yet the whole time that video has

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been up I’ve been sort of upset that I

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never talked about the light meter so I

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can imagine some of you out there

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getting a camera for the first time

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watching that tutorial and going on

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taking a picture maybe something like

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this oh look there’s something cool I

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want to take a picture of you turn on

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the camera and you’re looking at the

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back of the LCD screen you’re seeing

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this and you zoom in and you go okay

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that’s a little dark let me do this here

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okay yeah okay that looks good maybe I

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should change the ISO still not bright

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enough yeah that looks good okay let me

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just make sure it’s in focus and boom we

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take the photo right let’s take a look

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at it there it is there’s the photo now

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you were using the LCD screen to find

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what your exposure is you were using the

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brightness of the the screen itself to

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tell you what the brightness of the shot

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should be that’s what you do that’s its

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it seems pretty obvious you know it

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seems like well duh of course I’m

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looking at the back of the screen it

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looks like it’s the right exposure so

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I’m going to take the shot now granted

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with a photo you can get away with it

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because photos have a lot more data in

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them and you have a lot more recovery in

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post for video guys they know you cannot

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use the LCD screen to tell you what your

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exposure is why well the screen itself

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has its own brightness you can turn the

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brightness up or down I could turn the

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brightness of this monitor all the way

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up now it’s at a hundred now if I were

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to do the same thing now it looks a

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little now looks too bright so now I’m

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going to bring it down and then take the

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photo there but what’s the real exposure

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how can I tell the difference between

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the inherent brightness of the monitor

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and what the actual exposure of the

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image that I’m seeing the light that’s

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bouncing off of it and coming to the

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camera how can I tell the difference

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between what the LCD is showing me and

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what is really actually properly exposed

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according to the camera according to the

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sensor that’s where the light meter

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comes in or how about this what about if

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you have a camera that doesn’t have an

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LCD screen on it what if you have a film

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camera film cameras don’t have a fancy

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little box on the back to show you what

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the exposure is the first camera I ever

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learned photography on was a 35

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millimeter film camera so this having an

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LCD screen is like amazing because you

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can see it right there you can see what

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the exposure is now that’s true for the

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new generation you don’t really need to

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know about the light meter and that’s

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why I didn’t put it in my last tutorial

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you can get away with not having to

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learn about it because we’re so spoiled

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with having LCD screens but if you

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really want to take this seriously

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especially if you’re a videographer you

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have to learn about how to get exposure

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using the camera’s instruments to tell

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you what that exposure is now on a film

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camera the light meter was inside the

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viewfinder and it’s also up here in this

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little zone looks like a calculator now

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the really old film cameras don’t even

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have this calculators display here this

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crap what is this called I’m just going

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to call it a digital readout the real

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the old film comers don’t have that the

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light meter is inside the viewfinder and

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it’s magnified so that you can you can

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actually see it when you look through

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now it is awesome that I’ve been a space

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like this but it does kind of suck

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because I’m going to be talking about

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situations that photographers come up

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against in real-life situations outside

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you know landscapes or you know wedding

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photographers or something where you

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don’t have control over the lights like

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I do in here so I actually had to set up

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a white paper over here and I just

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shined a pretty bright light on it now

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let me tell you how this light meter

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thing works so right now I’m just going

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to fill up the frame with the very

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bright part of the seamless paper there

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now how do you get your exposure you

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come back to this beautiful light meter

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right here so in the photography world

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when something’s too bright it means

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there was too much light getting exposed

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to the film too much light getting

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exposed to the sensor or some people fur

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to say it too much of the sensor being

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exposed to light too much of light being

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exposed to the sensor too much of the

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sensor being exposed to light I don’t

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care it means the same thing you can say

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it both ways so when something is very

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bright it is overexposed the word over

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comes with a plus sign which is why we

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have the plus sign over here when

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something’s too dark not enough light

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has gone and hit the sensor or hit the

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film so it is underexposed it’s not

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bright enough it’s under that’s why

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there is a little minus symbol over here

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so we have under exposure and over

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exposure this little guy in the middle I

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don’t know what it’s called it looks

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pretty cool it’s like a little compass

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needle this little guy in the middle

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tells you that that’s properly exposed

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now on DSLR cameras when you go to take

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a picture you can just hit the shutter

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button and take a photo but you also can

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press the shutter button down halfway

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you just press it a little bit now

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notice what happened things changed it’s

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kind of sucks to Ferrara as a first

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example but I’ll go with it

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right now this little arrow came up now

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you can see the shots white very bright

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and this is on the over side overexposed

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so it’s telling us that it’s so bright

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that it’s off the chart so right now I

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can see my ISO is pretty high so I’m

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going to take a reading again and I’m

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going to put the ISO down so let’s go by

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the way I love the way on the 70d the

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ISO looks that’s pretty cool and it has

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all the increments of 1/3 stops so

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that’s cool 400 next one is 5/4 6/4

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that’s really cool I really like the

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design of this one of the reasons why I

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chose to make the 7d d the demonstration

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camera here so let’s pop down to let’s

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pop down to 320 now the only thing that

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sucks about that is that you can’t see

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the light meter changing as you go but

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hey look now we’ve got a little block

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right here so it’s telling us that we’re

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three stops overexposed now if you saw

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the DSLR basic setting satori you know

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what you know what stops are so three

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stops all right well let’s just let’s

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put the f-stop up to the full stop at 8

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so we’re about three stops overexposed

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so we’re going to have to iris down

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three stops or shutter up to the

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equivalent of three stops or combination

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of both so let’s do a combination of

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both so we’re at f/8 let’s go up one

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stop one two three to f11 and then let’s

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compensate with some shutter speed so

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let’s go one two three and then an extra

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pop up there so notice when you make a

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click on the shutter speed it’s moving

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one of these little dots boom one click

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is one dot bomb one click is one dot

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click click every one of these dots here

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corresponds to a third of a stop so if

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we go to overall exposure right here and

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we click up one third of a stop click up

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one third of a step click up that’s your

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full stop that’s why there’s a 1 if we

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go one two three now we’re at two now

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when you’re when you press the shutter

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button down halfway the sensor the

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camera is giving you an active live feed

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so notice if I were to hold the shutter

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button down it’s getting that active

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reading and I were to move the camera

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way look what’s happening things popping

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down active live so it’s reading that

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data right now it’s reading it on the

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fly so if a your if you’re at this at a

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window or something and some

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he walks in front of the window or a car

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rolls up a truck rolls up and blocks

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your shot your ex your exposure is going

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to change on the fly and you should be

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aware of that and find out what now the

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new exposure is that’s the crazy thing

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about shooting in real life outdoors in

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you know natural situations is that

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exposures can change on the fly a cloud

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can go in front of the Sun and cover the

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whole landscape in overcast that’s

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totally going to change your f-stop your

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that’s totally going to change your

11:36

exposure setting so if we keep it in the

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bright spot make sure I’m zoomed all the

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way into the bright spot it’s telling us

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right now that at 125 shutter at f11 at

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320 is oh this is a perfect exposure a

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perfect overall exposure it’s telling

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you the proper reading of light for a

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proper exposure overall just imagine

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this being a beautiful landscape we’re

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at the top of a big hill looking down at

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at the Shire there’s rolling hills and

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trees can you see it it’s beautiful and

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we’re taking our reading and mmm there

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it is 125 f11 and 3 ISO 320 that’s going

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to be a beautiful look how beautiful

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that look so let’s take that photo

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that’s going to be a great shot you may

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have noticed if you’re really keen and

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you’re really astute you may have

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noticed if you were at a wedding or

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something or if you’ve watched a

12:30

photographer work you may have noticed

12:32

him you know maybe walk into a new

12:34

situation he’s just inside taking photos

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inside walks outside he doesn’t pick up

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the camera take a photo look at the back

12:42

of the LCD screen change a setting take

12:44

a photo look at the back of the LCD

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screen he’s not doing that

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he walks outside into a new situation

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he’s looking at his little digital

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readout and he’s gone button up Nana and

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he’s getting that he’s getting that

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thing right at where it needs to be boom

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and look I just did something quickly on

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the fly I went down to f5 and 640

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shutter and it’s same it’s a still a

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good exposure look how fast I did that

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when I’m not even thinking so you might

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be in a situation where just a moment

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ago you were at f4 and 4000 shutter you

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walk into a new zone you look down and

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ah I need some more light let me just

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pop up and you go oh okay that works or

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you say to yourself you know what I

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really want to do a deep focus I don’t

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want to do

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focus so let me pop up the shutter speed

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let me pop up the f-stop all the way as

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high as it’ll go

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and all right I got to go pretty low in

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the show let me bounce up my ISO let me

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see here and there boom

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now you can instantly we got a super

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deep focus and a proper exposure there

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was no dicking around so that’s it huh

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we’re done right nope let me hit you

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with another situation let’s say you

13:48

just went to Vegas your hotel room is

13:50

beautiful you’ve got a great balcony it

13:52

looks great it’s a very bright day

13:53

outside you stand out on the balcony hey

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let me get a picture you you and the

13:58

whole scenery behind you on your 30th

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floor whatever so let’s take a look at

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it see our beautiful view right here

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look that’s our look at our balconies

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right here and this all in the

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background is the the the Empire State

14:11

Building from the New York City casino

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there’s the Le Eiffel Tower right there

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that pyramid thing the Luxor the

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cosmopolitan building is beautiful look

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at all that now let me go step onto the

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balcony hey don’t I look gorgeous

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now you’re going to come up against the

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situation the background this beautiful

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landscape is very bright it’s noon and

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you’re in Vegas it’s very bright out

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there so before I stepped into the frame

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we got our exposure I mean take a look

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at it without Brenda in the shot it’s

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perfectly exposed Brenda steps in what

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do we do this is where being a

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photographer can suck sometimes now a

14:54

moment like this a flash would be

14:56

awesome a you know a thing you put on

14:59

your camera that goes gives you a big

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burst of light I’m sure you’ve seen a

15:03

flash go off now most cameras that we

15:05

have our cellphones and stuff have them

15:07

built in some DSLRs have them built in

15:11

the 70d has one built in it’s right here

15:12

now the 5d Mark to the 5d Mark 3 do not

15:16

have flashes built in you’d have to buy

15:18

an extra one and they can be $500 $600

15:22

you can get a really cheap one for like

15:23

maybe a 150 or something but let’s say

15:27

you you’re brand new photographer

15:30

amateur photographer you got a camera

15:32

that you went for the 5d and it doesn’t

15:34

have a flash

15:35

built-in and now you’re in this

15:36

situation and that’s where being a

15:38

photographer can suck sometimes when you

15:40

get into a situation like this so you

15:42

have to ask yourself this question what

15:44

do I want to expose for sometimes you’re

15:48

going to be in situations where there’s

15:50

very high contrast now what does that

15:52

mean it means exactly that one thing in

15:55

the frame is going to be dark because

15:57

there’s no light on it and the other

15:59

thing in the frame is going to be very

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bright there’s a lot of light on it and

16:03

the difference in stops is very big so

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in this situation you have to ask

16:09

yourself what do I want to expose for

16:12

let’s say Brenda’s wearing a really nice

16:14

dress forget about the background it’s

16:16

there but let’s I want to see Brenda’s

16:19

face I want to see the clothes that

16:20

she’s wearing so what do we do

16:22

in this situation now cool trick that I

16:25

like to do I’m going to bring in a stunt

16:26

double

16:28

now cool trick that I like to do is when

16:30

I’m in a situation like this is now I’m

16:32

on a tripod so I’m going to take it off

16:33

watch the monitor here I like to

16:35

literally walk right up to my subject I

16:38

look I like to walk right up to my

16:40

subject zoom in on them so I’m filling

16:43

the whole frame with the part I want to

16:47

expose for now I should press the

16:49

shutter button down halfway to get my

16:51

reading and I notice that I have to do

16:55

some settings so it’s good enough for me

16:58

that’s a proper exposure right there so

17:01

let me pop back and now let me focus so

17:07

now I know that our face will be

17:10

properly exposed now that block of wood

17:12

might be the same amount of light

17:13

bouncing off it as my skin so me hop in

17:15

there see what it looks like not bad not

17:19

bad

17:19

at least we can see details we can see

17:22

the clothes so here we go set the

17:24

exposure and now we got a pretty good

17:25

photo it’s not silhouetted like it was

17:27

before so it means that you have to

17:29

decide what you want to expose for

17:31

imagine a landscape don’t you just love

17:38

my drawing so imagine this beautiful

17:39

landscape trees details and things that

17:42

you want to see the sun’s here the

17:43

stones in front of you so everything’s

17:45

kind of getting backlit and the sky is

17:47

very bright

17:48

you aim your camera at this scene and

17:50

you get a overall perfect reading here’s

17:53

the likely thing that’s going to happen

17:54

the sky is going to be exposed perfectly

17:57

but the ground is not so you have to ask

18:00

yourself what do you want to expose for

18:02

if you do want to expose for the sky I

18:04

would say tilt your camera up fill the

18:07

frame with the sky get your overall

18:10

reading come back down to where you want

18:13

to be take the photo and it’ll be a cool

18:15

silhouetted thing depending on the

18:17

lighting situation of the sky

18:19

contrasting that tilt the camera down

18:21

get rid of the sky altogether get the

18:24

camera to be about here get yours

18:26

reading for right in the middle for the

18:29

overall reading then get it back up to

18:31

where you want to be take the photo

18:33

the ground will be exposed beautifully

18:35

the sky might be a little overexposed

18:37

but maybe you can work that out in post

18:39

a week later you get back from Vegas

18:43

you’re taking a look at the photo and

18:45

you bring it into Photoshop and you can

18:48

mess with it and post the bright spots

18:50

in the back you do some recovery you

18:52

mess with levels you learn a little bit

18:54

about Photoshop you could you might be

18:56

able to bring back a lot of that detail

18:58

in the background even though you’re

19:00

exposing for the foreground the you’re

19:02

exposing for Brenda do some work to it

19:04

and you can get a better dynamic range

19:08

is what they call that when the

19:10

overexposed parts can come down and get

19:12

more into the properly exposed level and

19:15

the subject maybe was a little bit too

19:17

dark but you can then bring them up so

19:19

you’ll notice that a high dynamic range

19:22

photo tends to look flat because it’s

19:25

taking the really bright ones and

19:27

pulling them towards the middle and

19:28

taking the really dark things and

19:29

pulling them towards the middle some

19:31

people don’t like high dynamic range

19:32

they look a little too weird or too flat

19:34

some people learn too high dynamic range

19:35

so it really just depends on your taste

19:37

and your style you do however have a

19:39

better chance of recovering those

19:41

brights if you shoot in RAW rather than

19:43

shooting in JPEG so most photographers

19:46

shoot RAW all the time especially if

19:48

you’re a professional photographer if

19:50

you shoot something like this scenario

19:51

and a JPEG it’s compressing it in the

19:54

camera yeah your file size is going to

19:56

be like five megabytes as opposed to a

19:58

raw photo which is going to be like 25

20:00

megabytes

20:02

so per card per memory card you’re going

20:04

to have a lot less shots per day you

20:07

know you put in a 16 gigabyte card

20:10

you’re going to get I don’t know five

20:12

hundred photos with raw whereas with

20:14

JPEG you’re going to get two thousand

20:15

photos so you got to ask yourself what’s

20:18

the purpose of what you’re doing but

20:20

like I said if you’re in a situation

20:22

like that and you know in post I’m going

20:25

to fiddle with it to try to get the

20:26

exposure look good overall you

20:28

definitely want to shoot in RAW so that

20:30

it there’s no compression and you can

20:32

really go in there and dial in your

20:34

exposure after the fact I’m moving my

20:38

stunt double in here for another example

20:40

now some people I know are going to be

20:41

asking about video cameras now I said in

20:44

my DSLR basic settings tutorial that

20:46

everything in the tutorial will work for

20:49

any camera you have and I mention that

20:51

to my photographer friends and my

20:53

videographer friends the light meter not

20:55

necessarily the case another reason why

20:58

I left it out of that tutorial video

21:00

cameras and DSLR cameras have different

21:03

ways to show you how to get your

21:05

exposure the DSLRs have the light meter

21:08

with this beautiful thing now as far as

21:11

I know video cameras maybe they do have

21:13

it if you can turn it on but for the

21:15

most part you get your exposure with

21:17

video cameras by using your zebras what

21:21

are zebras well they’re stripes they’re

21:24

stripes

21:25

now I set this up and I have this camera

21:27

set up right here to show you my monitor

21:31

this is going to be weird in meta now I

21:33

don’t I I tend to do my tutorials

21:36

unscripted I sort of go off the cuff and

21:39

I go live and I just see where the

21:42

things take me so I didn’t know I was

21:43

going to do this otherwise I would

21:44

probably set this up in a different way

21:45

but since we’re here since we’re doing

21:47

it let’s switch over to this camera here

21:50

got my monitor right here so I can see

21:51

myself so the c100 this is a c500 did I

21:56

mention before that it was a C 185

21:58

hundred whatever so let me turn on the

22:00

zebras for you boom there they are so

22:06

once again let me show you them off

22:09

notice here there’s nothing here there’s

22:11

nothing turn them on these things pop up

22:14

now now

22:15

what are the zebras basically zebras are

22:17

telling you parts of the frame that are

22:20

exposed overexposed as opposed to under

22:23

exposed now zebras are different from

22:24

the other light meter over here whereas

22:27

this light meter tells you an overall

22:30

exposure it takes every part of the

22:33

frame mixes it together gives you an

22:36

average and then tells you where that

22:38

average is you can see the average

22:40

doesn’t really work for a situation with

22:43

Brenda because it’s the background so

22:47

bright that that is overruling the

22:48

average now that’s where zebras can come

22:51

in handy because it’s telling you

22:53

exactly what part of the frame is

22:55

exposed correctly and exposed over now

22:59

you can set your zebras to different

23:01

exposure levels right now I have these

23:03

set to 70% now that means you’ll start

23:05

to see zebras that you start to see the

23:07

stripes at 70 percent of full out full

23:12

blown out basically all the way to

23:15

peaking of in terms of hotness exposure

23:17

level so check it out I’ll mess with the

23:20

aperture right here I don’t know if you

23:22

can see it yeah you can see it right

23:23

here we’re at f9 now if i dial up see

23:28

I’m changing the f-stop now basically

23:32

it’s so blown out that you don’t even

23:35

see the Zebras anymore but so let me go

23:38

to dark so here we are now we’re

23:40

underexposed now you can see except for

23:42

the very brightest part of the frame

23:44

here you don’t see any zebras you know

23:47

what really quickly I’m going to turn

23:49

off the numbers and stuff hang on so I

23:53

turned off the numbers except for zebras

23:56

now you’ll see when I’m stopped down

23:59

really really low I’m at f-18 now let’s

24:02

pretend that that YouTube box is Brenda

24:04

it’s her face it’s our subject it’s a

24:07

thing we want to expose for this guy

24:09

right here so let’s pop up the exposure

24:11

level and I’m looking here I’m looking

24:14

to find what our exposure is here so I’m

24:17

going to go a little bit brighter I’m

24:18

going to go one third of a stop at a

24:19

time okay boom so at f11 we got nothing

24:23

at f10

24:25

we’ve got zebras and we know that it’s

24:27

about 70% of blown out

24:29

now if we keep going it’s even more and

24:32

now that’s wait that’s over that’s too

24:36

much

24:36

we’ll keep it about here that’s the safe

24:38

place to keep it if this is if this is

24:40

Brenda’s face a little bit of zebras on

24:42

the face should be okay then again in

24:44

this situation I’m actually exposing for

24:46

myself so I’m going to hop in the frame

24:48

real quick and I’m going to take a look

24:49

at myself this is how I actually set up

24:51

and I’m noticing that f9 is a little bit

24:54

better so f10 f10 I mean this is not

24:58

what I was set up before this is totally

24:59

acceptable but I prefer just a little

25:02

bit you can see on the you can see on

25:03

this camera there’s not really any

25:05

zebras except for the super bright spots

25:07

at the top ahead from the backlight but

25:10

let me go to f9 part I had it set up

25:12

before take a look at that

25:14

yep ever so slightly on my nose and a

25:17

little bit more on my head but I like

25:19

this exposure just a little bit better

25:20

you can also notice looking at the

25:22

monitor that the board behind me which I

25:26

have not really used as much as the

25:27

Light Meter Tutorial – Photography/Videography 101 with Steve DiCasa

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